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Portfolio Post for Zenkaikon Artist Alley Registration

I realized that I don’t have just one link that shows all my work and due some recent theft, all of my digital work was stolen (including the laptop and backup dive it was on).  So I decided to make a post that organized all the links that can act as my portfolio for the time being.

You can find a range of the type of jewelry, charms, pins & magnets I’ll be selling here: http://pupe.ameba.jp/cute/item/list?code=TRh5LOrKgPJL&categoryId=8910&phase=0#i8910_1 here: http://pupe.ameba.jp/cute/item/list?code=TRh5LOrKgPJL&categoryId=10910&phase=0 & here as well: http://www.aliceinunderwear.net/resin.html

I sell my work online here with another artist: http://www.strangely-cute.com/

Here’s a few quick links:

- Resin Jewelry: Sample 1, Sample2, Sample3, Sample4, Sample5, & Sample6

- Deco Sweets: Sample1, Sample2, Sample3, Sample4, & Sample5

- Lego Jewelry: Sample1, Sample2, & Sample3

- Original Trading cards: Sample1, Sample2, & Sample3

All trading cards are one of a kind fanart done on trading card sized bristol board.

Thank You for your time & consideration!

~July Event Schedule~ 2010

I got a lot of good feedback about my July event schedule ^_^ so here’s the one for August.

~All events are weather permitting unless otherwise noted.  If rain or thunderstorms are being called for the night before an outdoor event I most likely won’t be going.  I will always update my status the night before here as an FYI.~

July 2nd – First Friday’s – (2nd & Market streets, Phila, PA)

July 4th – Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.)

July 10th & 11thThe Piazza at the Schmidt’s. (2nd & Germantown Ave, Phila PA 19123)

More to come!

New comic posted! ~Pg 22 NSMG~

Page 22 of Not So Magical Girl is posted.  Check it out here:

NSMG Chapter 2 posted

So a little less than a month ago I started a total re-do of my comic page because it was hacked.  I started re-posting all the old pages from Not So Magical Girl and playing around with code.  The page still looks plain but the comic is proceeding as planned.  Check out the first page of chapter 2:

Or, if you want to read from the beginning, you can do so from here:

Comic Under Construction Info

Dear Interbutts,

A couple of months ago my site was hacked and caused me a long sleepless night getting it back to a non-virus infested state.  Fortunately, I backed the whole site up and I was able to restore it but for some reason, after the restoration, updating comicpress would cause the whole thing to dissapear…  I was pretty down because I knew this meant more time I had to devote to re-doing everything to a site I was finally happy with.  So, I slowly began the reconstruction, first here with the updates section and now I finally gave in and started to redo my comic section. (;_;)  It was hard saying goodbye.  I had to delete everything, except for anything I could copy and paste, and start from scratch.  So I’m turning over a new leaf so to speak and relaunching my comic.  I’ve been working really hard on the second chapter and I can’t wait to start posting again.  The comic will start being re-posted as late as this Friday: 03/12/10 and will be posting updates here as I go.

Please look forward to it.

Much Love

~Foxy Alice

Resin Days – Chapter One, Part Two/樹脂の日々- チャプター1パート2

*Please note from here on out that all of my advice is specifically for epoxy resin, not polyester.  I’m pretty sure most of this is applicable to both but use at your own discretion and good luck resining!

Top 5 common problems when pouring Resin

  1. Bubbles
  2. Objects not laying flat
  3. Paper turning transparent
  4. Hairs, dust & debris
  5. Resin not mixed accurately

Bubbles:

I think this is the biggest most constant issue with Resin.  You can create bubbles by mixing resin too much, pouring it into the mold and by adding objects into it.  They’re annoying and ever present.  The easiest way to get rid of them is by blowing them out with a straw however THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND I’M IN NO WAY SUGGESTING THAT YOU USE THIS METHOD.  There’s a chance you could suck instead of blow (It’s Megamaid sir! She’s gone from suck…to blow!) and consuming resin equals a trip to the hospital.  Instead of a straw, I’ve used a hairdryer on low heat or cool and gotten a lot of bubbles out.  Heat guns are also a good alternative because when resin is slightly heated it becomes easier to work with.  However, be careful not to melt your molds! (I’ve done this ;_; )  Another method I use for hard to reach bubbles is a toothpick… In fact I use toothpicks for so much in resin… It’s a marvelous throw away tool.

Bubbles, Bubbles & more Bubbles!!

Bubbles, Bubbles & more Bubbles!!

Objects not laying flat:

When embedding objects in resin you need to do a total of 2 separate pours.  The first pour, usually clear, should be thin and you can either push the object all the way down in the resin when you pour it (it may still not lie flat depending on the object) or you pour a thin clear layer, let it cure and then lie your object on top of that and pour a second layer.  Be careful of foam stickers or other objects that hold air as they will float in resin that’s just been poured and may create bubbles.

Paper turning transparent:

Not all paper turns transparent in resin but I would say that most does.  All you need to do is seal the item you’re embedding in resin with a little modge podge (matte, paper use) and you’re ready to go.  I’ve also heard of people using elmer’s glue but I never have so I’m unsure if it works well or not.

Failed Bottlecaps :(

Failed Bottlecap Images :(

Hairs, dust & debris:

Ideally, every work space should be clean and dust free, especially when working with resin.  I advise that you NOT create resin in a room with carpets if possible.  I work on a high table in the corner of my kitchen away from food.  There’s good ventilation in there and no carpets.  I do have a cat though so I often get cat hairs in my resin.  >_<  I get anything stuck in there out by hand and then use a container to cover my resin as it cures over the next 24 hours.

Resin not mixed accurately:

Epoxy resin is a 1:1 ratio so that means half resin and half hardener in equal amounts at all times.  If you mix them in uneven amounts your resin will not cure properly and remain soft and tacky.  They’ll be hard enough to get them out of the molds after a few days but you won’t be able to use them.  This makes resin pouring a little risky, all that hard work and you might have to throw everything out!  This always makes me sad.  However, I noticed that this only happens when the ratio of resin is greater than the ratio of hardener.  However, if the ratio of hardener is greater than that of the resin, your resin will still harden, but at a much faster rate.  I’d say the working time you have with a resin pour where the amount of hardener is greater than the amount of resin is about 15 minutes tops.  With a perfect pour your working time is probably about 30 minutes tops.  So if you ever doubt your resin ratio, just add a little more hardener and you’re sure to be able to keep all your work.

Until next post, have fun creating!

日本語版はあとで投稿します。

Top 5 common problems when pouring Resin

1. Bubbles

2. Objects not laying flat

3. Paper turning transparent

4. Hairs, dust & debris

5. Resin not mixed accurately

Bubbles:

I think this is the biggest most constant issue with Resin. You can create bubbles by mixing resin too much, pouring it into the mold and by adding objects into it. They’re annoying and ever present. The easiest way to get rid of them is by blowing them out with a straw however THIS IS EXTREMLY DANGERUOUS AND I’M IN NO WAY SUGGESTING THAT YOU USE THIS METHOD. There’s a chance you could suck instead of blow (It’s Megamaid sir! She’s gone from suck…to blow!) and consuming resin equals a trip to the hospital. Instead of a straw, I’ve used a hairdryer on low heat or cool and gotten a lot of bubbles out. Heat guns are also a good alternative because when resin is slightly heated it becomes easier to work with. However, be careful not to melt your molds! (I’ve done this ;_; ) Another method I use for hard to reach bubbles is a toothpick… In fact I use toothpicks for so much in resin… It’s a marvelous throw away tool.

Objects not laying flat:

When embedding objects in resin you need to do a total of 2 separate pours. The first pour, usually clear, should be thin and you can either push the object all the way down in the resin when you pour it (it may still not lie flat depending on the object) or you pour a thin clear layer, let it cure and then lie your object on top of that and pour a second layer. Be careful of foam stickers or other objects that hold air as they will float in resin that’s just been poured and may create bubbles.

Paper turning transparent:

Not all paper turns transparent in resin but I would say that most does. All you need to do is seal the item you’re embedding in resin with a little modge podge (matte, paper use) and you’re ready to go. I’ve also heard of people using elmer’s glue but I never have so I’m unsure if it works well or not.

Hairs, dust & debris:

Ideally, every work space should be clean and dust free, especially when working with resin. I advise that you NOT create resin in a room with carpets if possible. I work on a high table in the corner of my kitchen away from food. There’s good ventilation in there and no carpets. I do have a cat though so I often get cat hairs in my resin. >_< I get anything stuck in there out by hand and then use a container to cover my resin as it cures over the next 24 hours.

Resin not mixed accurately:

Epoxy resin is a 1:1 ratio so that means half resin and half hardener in equal amounts at all times. If you mix them in uneven amounts your resin will not cure properly and remain soft and tacky. They’ll be hard enough to get them out of the molds after a few days but you won’t be able to use them. This makes resin pouring a little risky, all that hard work and you might have to throw everything out! This always makes me sad. However, I noticed that this only happens when the ratio of resin is greater than the ratio of hardener. However, if the ratio of hardener is greater than that of the resin, your resin will still harden, but at a much faster rate. I’d say the working time you have with a resin pour where the amount of hardener is greater than the amount of resin is about 15 minutes tops. With a perfect pour your working time is probably about 30 minutes tops. So if you ever doubt your resin ratio, just add a little more hardener and you’re sure to be able to keep all your work.

日本語版はあとで投稿します。

Resin Days – Chapter One, Part one/樹脂の日々- チャプター1パート1

This post is bilingual.  The English version is 1st and the Japanese is 2nd.

最初は英語で、それから日本語です。(*日本語があまり上手じゃなくて、すみません。(>_<) )

English version/英語版

コニャニャチワ! These posts were originally old Livejournal posts from about a year ago.  I’ve decided to put them here because I feel that anyone adventuring into the wonderful world of resin jewelry can benefit from them.  I also want to continue posting about my new adventures in resin but It feels kinda of silly if I don’t start from the beginning.

A lot of you already know, but I’ve been playing with resin for quite a while now.  My first few times didn’t go so well but I learned so much (and still am learning) so I thought I’d share my knowledge, if your interested.  If not you can always just look all of  the pretty pictures like below instead.

Hooray! Cinnamaroll!

Hooray! Cinnamaroll!

So onto the resin. There are 2 types of resin commonly used in jewelry/charm making: Epoxy and Polyester.  There’s also polyurethane resin which mostly used on the commercial/industrial level.

Epoxy Resin

Epoxy Resin:

Epoxy resin is a low odor resin and not as harmful in liquid form (nor as assaulting on the senses) as polyester resin.  It’s commonly used for casting small objects as it is not a truly clear liquid.  When Epoxy is used to cast thicker larger objects you begin to notice a slight yellowing (unless you add dyes of course).   An epoxy resin kit consists of 2 bottles, one contains the actual resin and the other contains the hardener.  You mix epoxy resin by adding equal ratios of Epoxy Resin and Hardener.

Polyester Resin

Polyester Resin

Polyester Resin:

Polyester resin is not low odor and it doesn’t yellow when casting large/thick objects, in fact if offers the clearest casting possible.  It isn’t a one to one ratio mix like the Epoxy resin however and it’s a bit more tricky to get the correct ratio with this resin.  The hardener or catalyst as it’s called in the case of polyester resin,  is a tiny bottle of liquid and depending on the amount of resin you want to pour depends on how many drops of catalyst you add to the resin.  But fear not, if you decide to venture into the smelly world of polyester, each bottle comes with specific ratio instructions.

Which resin is right for me?

Although you have advantages with polyester, it being the clearest pour and all, I personally feel that for jewelry making, epoxy is the best choice for many reasons.  It doesn’t require the amount of ventilation that polyester does, in small objects, like with jewelry, there is no noticeable yellowing, and the ratio is easier to figure out which means a more reliable pour each time.  This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use polyester, in fact I would encourage you to try both and make the decision that’s right for you.

My first experiences with epoxy resin:

My first time pouring resin I was so excited that I decided to just shove random objects into the molds and see what happened.  I was a very interesting experience.  I noticed bubbles everywhere and things like stickers were all wavy and anything made out of paper turned transparent. ^_^;  Yes, I ran into the 3 out of the 5 most common problems with resin in my first pour but that’s ok, practice makes perfect.  So having learned from the 1st round of resin, my second time pouring it turned out much better.  Although my cell phone images are kinda crappy, here’s a picture of some of the decent looking resin that came out of the 1st 2 batches I ever did:

MLP is scrumptious!

MLP is scrumptious!

In part 2 I’ll discuss the 5 most common problems to look out for when creating resin goodness.  Until then, have fun!

日本語版/Japanese version

Meow!  このブログ投稿はライブジャーナルと言うブログサイトを元に一年前ぐらいに書き始めたブログです。 レジン(樹脂)アクセサリーの魅力と作りたい人の為にこれからレジンについての新しいアイデアなどを引き続きこのブログから投稿したいと思います。

みんな知ってると思うけど、最近レジンと遊んでいました。 最初はうまくいかなかったけど、本当にたくさんのことを学ぶので(今も学んでいます!)知識を共有したいと思っています。

もし、作る事に興味がなくても、写真を見て楽しんで下さいね。

Cinnamarollのネックレース

Cinnamarollのネックレス

レジンのについて説明しましょう。

ジュエリーやアクセサリーを製作する時、一般的にエポキシとポリエステルの樹脂を使います。

ウレタン樹脂もあるけど、それは工業用の樹脂です。

エポキシレジン(樹脂)

エポキシ樹脂(レジン)

エポキシレジン:

エポキシレジンはあまり匂いが少ないのと、エポキシの液状はポリエステルの液状ほど匂いが強くなく有害ではありません。 純粋の透明な液ではなく特に小さいものを作るときに使われています。 もっと厚みのあるものを作るときには色が少し黄色く変化します(他の染料を使用せず)。 エポキシ樹脂キトに2本のボトルがあり、ひとつめには樹脂が入って、もうふたつめには樹脂硬化剤が入ってます。エポキシ樹脂の混合比は1:1です。

ポリエステル樹脂 (レジン)

ポリエステル樹脂 (レジン)

ポリエステルレジン:

エポキシレジンは凄い匂いがしますが透明な液なので、大きいもを作っても黄色く変化しません。 ポリエステルレジンは強い匂いがしますが型を大きいものや、厚みのあるものを作っても黄色くはならず、綺麗に透明感が出ます。 ポリエステルレジンはエポキシと比べて使い方が少し複雑です。 ボトルのフタを開けると小さいボトルがあるので、自分の必要な量をカップに注いで入れます。 ポリエステル樹脂の量を決めたら、説明書がちゃんと付いてますのでご安心して下さいね。

「自分に合う樹脂は?」

ポリエステルの方は一番透明な樹脂だけど、私としては、アクセサリーを作りたい人にはエポキシの方がいいと思います。あまり匂いがしなくて、アクセサリーなどの小さいものには、色が変化せず(黄色の部分が目立つことは少ない)、 液体の混合法も分りやすいので、確実に液体をカップに注ぐことができます。 でも、両方を使ってみて、自分にとって一番いいものを選ぶ方がいいと思います。

私の初めてのエポキシレジンの経験:

エポキシレジンと初めて使った時に超ワクワクして、急いで型にいろいろなものを入れました。楽しかったけどたくさん問題に気付きました!ところどころ見ると気泡があって、入れたシールもよれていました。 紙の方は、透明になっちゃいました!初めてのレジンを使った時、よく問題になりやすい5つのうち、3つの問題が起こりました。(;_;)  It’s ok, practice makes perfect! (大丈夫、習うより慣れろ!) 二回目はもうちょっとよくなりました。携帯写真がよくないけど、下の写真は私の初めてのレジンです。

初めてのレジンです。❤マイリトルポニーのマスカット可愛い❤

初めて作ったレジンです。❤マイリトルポニーのマスカット可愛いですネ❤

レジンを使って作ったもので、よく起こる5つのトラブルを書いていきます。 その時まで、レジンを楽しくて使ってねぇ!

Character Bios & Chapter 2!

































Over the past few weeks I’ve been updating my comic with Character Bios and I’ll soon add them to thier own illustration gallery elsewhere on the site.  For now you can see them if you read through my comic manually or by clicking the links attached to each picture.  I’ve also posted the chapter illustration for chapter 2. ^_^  Enjoy!

~August Event Schedule~ 2009

I got a lot of good feedback about my July event schedule ^_^ so here’s the one for August.

~All events are weather permitting unless otherwise noted.  If rain or thunderstorms are being called for the night before an outdoor event I most likely won’t be going.  I will always update my status the night before here as an FYI.~

August 1st & August 2nd – Happy Anniversary!  No events this weekend due to the celebrating of love and longevity with my Kitt-Monster.

August 9th (*unconfirmed)The Piazza. (2nd & Germantown Ave, Phila PA 19123) – Cancelled due to unfinished stock.  :( Will update next week’s confirmation by Thursday 8/13.

August 15th (*unconfirmed) – lions boy’s club flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (street rd. next to the wendy’s – close to the street rd & hulmeville intersection)

August 16th (*unconfirmed)Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.)

August 22nd (*unconfirmed) – lions boy’s club flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (street rd. next to the wendy’s – close to the street rd & hulmeville intersection)

August 23rd (*unconfirmed) - Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.)

August 29th (*unconfirmed) - lions boy’s club flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (street rd. next to the wendy’s – close to the street rd & hulmeville intersection)

August 30th (*unconfirmed) - Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.)

*The Piazza at Fishtown is a new event for me.  It’s a weekly event held on both Saturday & Sunday that draws a big crowd.  Since I never sold there before I’m unsure of how I’ll do.  If the event works well then I’ll be updating my August schedule again after the 9th.

Thanks again for all of your support!  I hope to see as many of you as possible at my upcoming events!  ^_^

~July Event Schedule~ 2009

Hi all!  Since I’ve started to develop an awesome group of people that want to know when and where I’ll be selling my work at next I’ve decided to keep an up-to-date event schedule here on my website.

~Most events are weather permitting (except the punk rock flea market and the Otakon artist alley events).  If rain or thunderstorms are being called for the night before an outdoor event I most likely won’t be going.  I will always update my status the night before here as an FYI.~

July 4th – lions boy’s club flea market – CANCELED due to transportation issues :(

July 5th - Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm ( located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.)

July 11th – Punk Rock Flea Market 9:00am – 4:00pm at the Starlight Ballroom (460 N 9th Street, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19123)

July 12th – Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm ( located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.) – CANCELED due to sleep issues :(   The Punk Rock Flea Market was exhausting and I didn’t get much sleep the night before so I decided to cancel this time around.  I should be back to Trevose in 2 weeks!

July 17th-19th – Otakon Artist Alley in Baltimore, Maryland.

July 25th - lions boy’s club flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm (street rd. next to the wendy’s – close to the street rd & hulmeville intersection) CANCELED due to stock – Otakon wiped me out!

July 26th - Trevose flea market 6:00am – 1:00pm ( located at Bucks County Technology Park, 4800 Street Rd., Trevose, PA – behind Trevose Firehouse.) CANCELED due to stock – Otakon wiped me out!

*Since it’s July 4th I need to confirm weather they will still be holding the flea market here or not.

**depends on stock.  I have to big event the following day which I usually sell out at and another whole big weekend event so if my stock is devastatingly low I won’t be attending this weekend.  I will confirm this the night of the 11th after the prfm.

***Again, depends on stock.

Thanks so much for all your lovely emails and support!  I hope to see as many of you as possible at my upcoming events!  ^_^